My maiden voyage to Greece
It pains me to admit it, but I was wrong about Greece. For years I categorically dismissed the country as not being sufficiently compelling to make it onto my travel bucket list. Now I freely acknowledge that this attitude was based on ignorance, hubris, and sheer stupidity. Even my well-traveled friends couldn’t convince me otherwise. I would explain that I had already seen the best of Greek ruins while in Sicily, Turkey, and Lebanon. Purported tales of a polluted Athens with its traffic congestion and crumbling, seedy neighborhoods was imprinted on my consciousness. I just wasn’t interested.
Then one day Paddy Nicholls, a dear friend who organizes luxury wine tours, proposed a trip to Greece. Now wine is a topic which does resonates with me. Plus, Paddy is one of those fascinating pals with whom having a friendship is addictive. Born in the UK and now a resident of France, Paddy’s career has been spent either traveling to or living in exotic countries. Currently, she resides in Provence where she owns an olive farm and mill. When not chez elle, she spends time in Andalusia and Morocco studying Arabic and delving into the mystical world of Sufism. Interesting person, right?
Once Paddy unveiled her impressive itinerary—a perfect blend of tourism with winery excursions—joining her in Greece began to percolate as a possibility. When she explained that her loyal band of followers were coming too and how much I’d enjoy meeting them, my deposit check was mailed off to France.
In hindsight, I am thrilled that I took the leap of faith. Not only did I discover an extraordinary country, bubbling over with a long and rich history, but I also met a group of Americans who enriched the experience. These were seasoned travelers who in real life were all super achievers. Not only were their accomplishments inspiring, but their vast knowledge of history and cultural differences served as an informal springboard for learning. Thanks to them, my “Never Greece” mantra quickly turned into “Why did it take so long to get here?”
To be truthful, it's cathartic admitting you’re wrong. Some call this “intellectual humility.” I call it “personal growth,” something you’re never too old to experience. And, now with the unbridled enthusiasm of a convert, I am ready to share a three-part series about my maiden voyage to Greece.
In Part 1, we’ll discuss some of the surprises my fellow travelers encountered during our two-week stay. Then, as this was a wine-themed trip, we’ll tackle our discoveries in the three wine regions we toured: Nemea, Santorini and Naoussa, the Greek Napa Valley located in the Peloponnese. To wrap up this series, TarteTatinTales will showcase Nikos Antonakeas, an Athens native with both a European and American perspective, who helped me better appreciate some of Greece’s ancient and modern traditions.
So, with my new-found admiration for this extraordinary country, let’s begin our exploration of Greece.
Greece as the cradle of Western civilization
Most people recognize that Greece is old. But it wasn’t until visiting the country and seeing its ruins that it kicked in just how old old was. My awareness of Greek history only went back to the times of Ancient Greece. Everyone knows that this span of time—which lasted approximately from 700 BC to 323 BC—was when all the good stuff happened. A checklist from your high school history class would have included: the birth of democracy, medicine, mathematics, literature, theatre, astronomy, and philosophy. And don’t forget that mythology (or was that earlier?) and the first Olympic games belong to this period as well. Now that’s a huge contribution to mankind for one country to make.
However, this period of vast productivity didn’t just pop up out of thin air. It was a revelation for me to learn about the other civilizations which predated Ancient Greece. It all started on the island of Crete with the business-savvy Minoans who thrived from 2000 to 1450 BC. They were prosperous traders who shipped their goods—wine, olive oil, jewelry, and pottery—all around the Mediterranean. Some scholars attribute the first European civilization to the Minoans as they were a people who valued art for art’s sake, social equity, and rational thinking.
However, a good thing rarely lasts forever. A volcanic eruption and massive tsunami devastated the island which led to a weakened Minoan period. Eventually they were overrun in 1600 BC by a race from the mainland called the Mycenae. The real-life feats of this group of primarily warriors and chieftains later inspired Homer’s legendary Iliad and The Odyssey written in the 9th century BC.
Our group visited the archeological remains of the citadel of Mycenae. Here we saw its famous Lion’s gate and royal tombs which were constructed like underground stone igloos. These were built a thousand years before Athen’s Golden Age! Imagine. As travel writer Rick Steve’s put it, “Ancient Greek tourists visited the dramatic ruins of Mycenae and concluded that the Mycenaeans must have been the heroes who won the Trojan war….They thought of the Mycenaeans as their ancestors, the first “Greeks.”
Space does not permit us to go into details about all aspects of Greece ‘s lengthy and sometimes very messy history, particularly in modern times! As you can imagine, wars were abundant, and the Greeks didn’t always win. There were long stretches of time when they were taken over first by the Romans, then the Byzantines, next the Ottoman, or Islamic Turks, and finally the Nazis. Each successive regime left its mark on the culture that we now recognize as Greek. But on the flip side, Greek culture’s lasting impact was even more significant on its “dominators.” No other country has had a greater influence on Western civilization than Greece.
Greece’s financial crisis
In 1981 Greece joined the European Union and in 2002 adopted the euro. Initially, Greece’s economy boomed thanks to an influx of EU subsidies. However, when the worldwide recession hit, Greece’s financial foundation imploded. As several of our guides explained, Greece was literally on the brink of bankruptcy, something a number of us didn’t realize.
Starting in 2009 the country faced severe economic reforms for ten years which made life very difficult for the average Greek. Some of the reasons for this negative financial climate included: government corruption; the country’s inability to collect taxes; excessive foreign debt due to multiple bailouts; high unemployment; a brain-drain which caused hundreds of thousands to leave the country; and an austerity program which put one third of the population at risk of poverty. Lots to complain about for sure.
As living conditions worsened, people took to the streets responding with multiple violent protests. In fact, this was a serious concern for one of our fellow travelers, former engineering guru Al Pierce. Was Greece’s tumultuous financial situation going to impact our trip in any way? Luckily, Al was surprised to discover that it did not.
While locals may still be complaining, we learned that the recent government is now making major inroads in dealing with the aftermath of Covid and a particularly long recession. According to Barron’s, since 2019 Greek President Mitsotakis and his new Democratic party have been making good on many of their promises. Taxes have been cut, minimum wage increased, and pensions boosted. Further, efforts have been made to combat corruption and make the government more efficient.
As a result, unemployment has fallen below 11% from 18% and the annual inflation rate is enviably low at 3%. As in all other Western countries, however, food and energy costs remain stubbornly high. Nonetheless, Greece’s economy is on the mend. And as we witnessed with the numerous cruise boats filled with happy travelers in Santorini, Greece’s tourism is definitely back!
Yellow Cabs
While everyone recognizes New York’s iconic bright yellow cabs, I was surprised to see that a) Athens uses yellow, too, not to mention b) that each cab driver can determine his own shade of the color. Some taxis looked like big slices of lemon meringue pies which made me chuckle as they whizzed by. I later discovered that the color varies from city to city. For example, in Thessaloniki, taxis are dark blue with a white top. In rural areas, cabs are often silver.
Taxis in Greece work the same way as they do in the US. You can hail them from the street if the light on the car’s roof is lit. People had warned me to be careful when using Greek cabs as sometimes the drivers can play nasty games. (Not too different from back home!) However, now there is an international app called FreeNow which you can safely use to get a taxi in Athens and Thessaloniki. Not only does this app provide a price estimate for your ride, but it will also give you a choice of car category: taxi, comfort taxi and eco taxi. The latter two are preferable. A comfort taxi is a one which is less than five years old and accepts credit cards. An Eco taxis is either an electric or hybrid car.
Taxis are abundant in most large cities. While many of them have a minimum fare determined by the local municipalities, they are considerably less expensive than ours in the States.
Toilet Paper
There are always cultural differences to observe while traveling abroad. Funnily enough, the one which surprised me the most was that you are not supposed to flush anything down toilets in Greece. Turns out their sewage pipes are too small to accommodate wads of toilet paper or anything else you might normally flush. However, there are always bins with lids next to the toilets. Additionally, there is always clear signage reminding you what to do. After forgetting a few times, eventually visitors get the hang of it. And it’s not as gross as you might think either as the receptacles are cleaned at least once a day.
Ironically, the first-ever known flushing toilets were developed in Greece on the island of Crete back in 1700 BC. The good news is that the country’s sewage systems are improving, especially in larger cities and in more modern buildings such as hotels and restaurants. But it’s always a good idea to pay attention to the signs.
Presidential Guards
No trip to Athens is complete without visiting the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier to witness the changing of the Presidential Guards, or Evzones. This is an elite infantry units of young, super fit Greek soldiers trained to perform various ceremonial duties. I had a chance to get up close and personal with the guards on an early morning walk as they were using the same pedestrian sidewalk as I was to return to their barracks after their tour of duty. If you think the Guards at Buckingham Palace are impressive, these buff boys have them beat. Even if they are dressed in a skirt and have pom-poms on their shoes!
Evzones are attired in a uniform reminiscent of that worn by the infantry unit which won the country’s independence from the Ottoman Turks. In fact, their voluminous white kilt-like skirt, called a Fustanella, is comprised of 400 pleats representing the number of years under Turkish occupation. Each soldier has three uniforms: white for formal occasions, khaki in the warmer months and black for winter. All of them have the requisite 400 pleats! To this day, the Greels don’t harbor warm feelings for the Turks.
What fascinated me most were the guards’ shoes called Tsarouhia. These distinctive clog-style shoes, with upturned toes, are made of handstitched red cowhide. Each shoe weighs 3.3 pounds and is embedded with at least 60 nails. When forcefully smacked down on the sidewalk as the guards perform their marching routines, the noise is supposed to simulate the sound of battle. Not one but two pairs of white woolen stockings need to be worn to prevent blisters.
The Evzones must stand rigidly straight and motionless for a full hour three times in total every 48 hours, rain or shine. Their heads are held high to avoid entangling the tassel on their scarlet wool fez. They are not allowed to utter a single word. However, the guards are escorted by fellow soldiers in fatigues whose role it is to trouble shoot any of the Evzones’ physical needs. To communicate with their military chaperones—who can ask them questions—Evzones will reply by blinking: once for “yes,” twice for “no,” and three times for “I don’t know!”
During the changing of the guards, the Evzones kick their legs high in the air AND in slow motion. This is supposed to help with their circulation having just spent an entire hour on their watch not moving a single muscle. The ceremony’s ritual includes doing a choreographed series of boot tapping, arm raising, and rifle smacking on their shoulders. Their routine is both majestic and spellbinding to observe.
Greek Cuisine’s traditions
Tracing the cuisine of Greece becomes an exercise of who invaded the country and how their respective dishes and preparations were assimilated over time. Modern Greek cuisine is an amalgam of Persian, Levantine-Arabic, Turkish and Byzantine influences. Dishes such as tzatziki, eggplant papoutsaki, pita bread, loukoumi, baklava, kadaifi, halva, are just some of many examples.
Considering these various Mediterranean countries lie side by side, it’s no surprise that their diets would be so similar. Fruits and vegetables, whole grains, seafood, nuts and legumes, and olive oil. And wine, of course. But Greek cooks like to add their own touches to any adopted dishes either by swapping out of an ingredient or two or changing the spices.
A good example is dolmades or stuffed grape leaves, a dish both the Greeks and the Turks prepare. The Turks have a traditional recipe invented for the Ottoman sultan that uses cherries, dried currants, cinnamon, parsley, dill, and allspice along with long grain rice, lemon juice and olive oil. However, a typical Greek preparation would be made with short grain rice, fennel, mint, onions, lemon juice and olive oil. Let the differences be savored!
Graffiti
Like in most countries, graffiti is an issue in Greece. When I asked executive business coach and entrepreneur Donna Yurdin what surprised her most about her visit to Greece, she immediately replied the omni-presence of graffiti. Ironically, the word graffiti originates from the Greek word graphi, meaning “to write.”
As we learned from our local guide, inscriptions and messages have been carved into stone for centuries. We even witnessed some very old examples while visiting the stone entrance to the arena in Nemea. Here we saw where one of the athletes had written his name along with a braggadocio remark that he was going to win the competition. At the other end of the tunnel one of his competitors had given a graffiti response, “That’s what you think!” Indeed, this ancient form of communication dates from around 570 BC.
That was back then. So, what about now? The reality is that graffiti has never left Greece. While tagging was acutely visible throughout the towns we visited giving an impression of urban decay and grittiness, not all modern graffiti is created equal.
Some of the street art we witnessed in the big cities dates to 1992 when the country was sinking into a dark period of economic crisis. With violent protests erupting, street artists reclaimed public spaces to offer their own social and economic commentary.
Today, non-tagging graffiti has morphed into a vibrant street mural scene, particularly in Athens where it has become a touristic attraction. It’s not uncommon for shopkeepers and owners of commercial property to offer up their space as an open canvas for street artists to express their art form.
Tour Guides
Evelyn Jackson, retired international financial services C-Suiter, was surprised at how knowledgeable our multiple guides were on the trip. However, consider for a moment that Greek tourism dates to the 4th Century BC! Even the word for guide is a variant in Greek for “xenagos,” meaning to assist foreigners in providing information and helping them finding their way.
In Ancient Greece travel —meaning that unrelated to trade or war—was primarily based on religious pilgrimages, sports tourism, or theatre festivals. People flocked to Delphi to worship the god Apollo. Greeks traveled throughout the year to their closest temple to honor Asklepios, the god of Medicine, and seek cures from the doctor-priests. The wealthy, accompanied by their slaves, traveled throughout Greece as well as to Egypt and Asia Minor. Visiting the pyramids was particularly popular, as was trekking up to the Acropolis in Athens.
Wars between the bickering city-states were put on hold for a month every four years so that athletes and their citizen fans could travel safely to one of the four Panhellenic Olympic Games sites, Olympia, Delphi, Corinth, and Nemea.
Fast forward to Modern Greece. Today tourism is one of the country’s most important contributors to its GNP. The government is particularly rigorous in protecting this asset by guaranteeing that their tour guides are well trained. To become a tourist guide in Greece, it’s mandatory to go through two and a half years at the university level National School of Tourist Guides run by the Ministry of Tourism. Certification to become a guide at an archeological site or museum is even more rigorous. Finally, all licensed guides are required to wear a badge when on duty.
Olympic Athletes
Perhaps I was the only one in our group who didn’t already know that athletes in the time of the Panhellenic Games competed naked. Not only that but they would ritually anoint their bodies with olive oil, then douse themselves with powder to protect them from the sun. Back then competitions were held in open-air stadiums which could accommodate upwards of 40,000 spectators.
Legend has it that originally the athletes did wear loin clothes to compete. However, when one unlucky athlete tripped over his one-piece garment when it slipped down while running, the local magistrate in charge of the games ordered a new ruling: All athletes should compete in the nude. Besides, it made them faster!
All Ancient Olympic Games started with a tribute to Zeus, the king of the gods and the game’s patron. Initially, running was the only competition. Then, to make it worthwhile for the fans to travel from afar, the games quickly expanded to include other sports, all war-related: boxing, wrestling, discus throwing, javelin, and chariot races where a tunic was permitted. Bribery and cheating were commonplace. Only biting and scratching another competitor’s eyes was forbidden.
Competitors from all over the ancient Greek world, including their colonies, would travel to various locations and compete against one another. Not only would the champions win prestige, money, and a crown of olive leaves or even wild celery, they would also garner recognition and pride for their families and hometown. Plus, no taxes for life!
Just like our modern Olympics, collective pride in an athlete’s accomplishments hasn’t changed. However, competing in the nude has.