MOROCCO PART 1: THE EVOLVING TRADITIONS OF ISLAM
Morocco was the first exotic country I ever visited. Forty-five years ago, my husband and I joined a small group of adventurers led by wine and food marketing legend Mary Lyons, my then mentor. Our goal was to explore a country about the size of California located on the northwest corner of Africa stopping off at its Imperial cities: Rabat, Meknes, Fez, Casablanca, and Marrakech. Fast forward, and I recently found myself repeating this same journey, naturally anxious to see how Morocco had evolved. In many ways, the contrasts were striking, especially in the big cities with their sophisticated new infrastructures, fancy modern buildings and Mac Do outlets. However, in the rural areas, people were still living in adobe huts and using donkeys as their main form of transportation.
The haunting sound of the muezzin’s call to prayer
I will never forget being awakened before daylight on my first morning in Fez back in 1980. The mysterious sound of chanting in a strange language wafting through the cool morning air was hard to miss. Later that day, I learned it was the muezzin’s first call to prayer of the day coming from the mosque’s minaret close to our hotel. Reexperiencing this distinctive sound was one of the main motivations for signing up for a recent trip to Morocco. But to my disappointment, this time I could hardly hear the call to prayer through the double-paned windows at our fancy hotel in Rabat, the country’s capital where we began our 10-day excursion.
What I didn’t realize was that our group of American and Canadian tourists had landed amid a dispute between prominent luxury hotel owners, mostly non-Moroccan, and big city municipalities. Foreign hoteliers were lobbying to lower the decibels of the muezzins’ heavily amplified call to prayer. Why? Because they worried it was putting off some of their guests. To put this in context, a city can have multiple minarets, each with its own muezzin performing his duty five times a day from dawn until dusk. For some visitors who like to sleep in late, this could be off-putting. For me, it was all part of the rhythm of life in a Muslim country. In fact, I loved the haunting echo of multiple chants melodiously skipping across the cityscape.
Turning down the volume
For a nation of 33 million inhabitants, most of whom are deeply religious, I felt this request of “turning down the volume” to be intrusive. At the same time, this cultural appropriation is a perfect example of modernity versus tradition. How can Morocco maintain its rigorous Islamic traditions against the strong lobbying power (and economic benefits to the country) of western businesses who also help welcome over seven million visitors each year to this relatively small country?
While Morocco sorts this all out, I found a simple solution which allowed me to bask in the mesmerizing sounds of the muezzins’ chanting: leaving the bedroom windows wide open. The following day, I was again completely seduced. I couldn’t get enough of the country’s intoxicating atmosphere of mystery and perceived danger. Its saturated colors of dusty pink, desert ochre, and vibrant Majorelle blue. Its distinctive architecture of horseshoe arches, Islamic domes and towers all exquisitely decorated with complex, ornate geometric designs. Its exotic scents of roses, saffron and mint. And even the earthy smell of donkeys. Yes, donkeys!
It was like rediscovering a lost lover, one passionately missed.
So, to keep this excitement going for a few weeks longer, I am writing three separate blog posts on TarteTatinTales. These will be snapshots on topics which captured my imagination: the evolving traditions of Morocco’s Islamic world; its breathtakingly beautiful, hand-crafted decorative arts scene; and finally, its incomparable cuisine.
The leaders of the pack
Our Tauck Tour, themed “The Magic of Morocco,” was led by Gina Pillsbury, a charming and uber-organized American who lives in Paris. Her fluent French was essential as she navigated the tricky logistics of squiring around 20 guests. Luckily, in addition to Arabic and Berber, French is still one of the country’s official languages; however, it is quickly being replaced with English.
Gina was joined by Redouane Hbibi, an exceptionally tall, 30-something civil engineer-turned-national guide. Redouane’s height and fully shaved head made it easy for us to spot his thin silhouette striding through the dark, narrow, and crowded passageways of the various souks, medinas, and palaces we visited.
Discovering Morocco Islamic traditions during Ramadan
As our local ambassador, Redouane’s primary role was to guide us through the history and traditions of his homeland. That included explanations of the Islamic religion. This was particularly poignant given the fact that our group was touring during Ramadan, the holy month when Muslims fast from early morning until sunset. What better time to witness the rituals and religious devotions of a country where over 95 percent of the population is Muslim.
In truth, many Americans are confused and perhaps even frightened by Islam. Thanks to 9/11 and periodic terrorist attacks around the world—where Islamic extremists claim responsibility—this is our reality today. One cannot deny the pervasive undertone of Islamophobia experienced at various levels in our country. Whether created through simple ignorance and/or misinformation, our group had a unique opportunity to set the record straight.
Changing perceptions
On the day we were to visit the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, Redouane arrived dressed head-to-toe in white. He jokingly announced, “I dressed like an angel today as I plan to convert all of you to Islam.” While we nervously laughed at his preposterous proclamation, what he did teach us that morning left a lasting mark on all of us.
As it turned out, Redouane’s real mission was not to convert us, but rather to change the perception of the Islamic stereotype and to help us better appreciate the basic tenets of his religion. Given there are 1.9 billion Muslim people worldwide with an estimated 3.45 million Muslims living in the United States, this re-education was invaluable.
Islam: a religion of universalism, peace, and tolerance
We learned that the Islamic religion is fundamentally one of peace, tolerance, and equality. In fact, as Redouane explained, the word ‘Islam’ means submission, humbling oneself, and obeying commands and heeding obligations without objection. The practice of terrorists, on the other hand, is one of violence, extremism, and evil, none of which is part of the teachings of Islam.
In one of the instructive handouts Gina prepared for us on the topic of Morocco and Islam, we learned that the history of the country “is tied up with that of the Amazigh people who survived several Islamic dynasties. Most of the people living in Morocco today are Berber Amazigh and Arabs. Sunni Islam is the major religion of the country.” Not only does Islam provide the foundation of the nation’s spiritual life, but also the country’s traditional social system, in both urban and rural communities.
The five pillars of Islam
Redouane was keen to explain that his religion is based on five pillars or practices. First is the profession of faith which is called Shahadah. Islam teaches that “There is no God but Allah, and Muhammad is the messenger of Allah.”
The second is the act of prayer which is a solemn, obligatory duty for all Muslims, men and women alike. Five times a day, Muslims pray at strictly designated times, starting at dawn and ending with the last prayer at dusk.
Ablution, or washing, is part of the preparation for prayer. Sometimes there is a fountain-like structure along a wall or in a courtyard close to the mosque. Other times, a place is set aside in a restroom or washroom. Historically, hammams or public bathhouses were located near a mosque so that men, and women too, could purify their bodies before prayer.
During Islamic prayer, worshippers bow, kneel and prostrate on the ground in humility before God. To assure cleanliness, shoes are also removed and kept at a shoe shelf just inside the mosque. If a mosque is not available, then the only requirement is that prayers be performed in an area which is clean—thus the popularity of individually-owned prayers rugs—and always facing Mecca (the holiest city in Islam, located in Saudi Arabia).
The third pillar refers to Zakat, or charity where one must give back to support the poor and/or the Islamic community. (This reminds me of tithing in the Protestant faith whereby you give back a portion of your income to the Church.)
The fourth pillar relates to Sawm or fasting which primarily takes place during Ramadan, the holy month. From sunrise to sunset, no food, drink—even water—smoking or sex are allowed. We witnessed this with Redouane who would quietly disappear while we enjoyed our meals. However, he also taught us that certain exceptions were made during fasting. This included the elderly, the sick, new mothers or even women menstruating, or anyone else for whom fasting would be dangerous to their health.
Redouane further explained the celebratory ritual of “iftar,” the name of the meal to break the fast. This normally takes place around 7 pm and often is enjoyed with family and friends. It’s traditional to start with harira, a healthy soup made of tomato, lentils, and chickpeas. During Ramadan, harira is frequently served with dates and chebakia, a honey-soaked pastry.
The fifth and last pillar is Hajj which requires that during one’s lifetime Muslims are obligated to make a pilgrimage to Mecca in the 12th month of the lunar calendar.
Friday: Islam’s holy day
We were surprised to learn that Islam’s holy day is Friday. Both men and women are encouraged to go to a mosque to pray; however, women worship in a different area, just as they do in the Orthodox Jewish religion. In the countryside, many women pray at home, as often they are preparing meals for their family and therefore can’t go to the mosque. Children have a half-day at school and many businesses are closed on Friday in observance of the holy day.
While the frequency for Islamic prayers might strike westerners as being rigid and demanding, our group learned from Redouane that exceptions can be made. For example, if you are a surgeon performing an operation, or a student taking an exam, or someone traveling, concessions come into play. In these cases, you are allowed to either shorten or combine your prayers.
The modern face of Islam in Morocco
One of the highlights of our Tauck experience was learning about the role of women and emerging feminism in Moroccan life, including Islam. Joan Brower, who traveled with me on this trip, will be our guest contributor on the topic of how women’s rights are gradually changing in Morocco.
Joining us for lunch one day was Fatima Rhorchi, Ph.D., Professor of Linguistics at the University Moulay Ismail School of Law and Economics in Meknes. She was invited to provide a frontline update on the progress of women's rights, gender equity and diversification in Morocco and to describe how the role of women in the country has changed rapidly over time. Here are the topics she discussed with us:
· As a monarchy with democratic elements, Morocco holds Parliamentary elections regularly. But the country’s leadership remains firmly under the current King Mohammed VI, who is both the head of state and the highest Islamic authority in the country. (The King is accepted as a direct descendant of the 7th century A.D. prophet Mohammed, considered the messenger of the word of God through divine revelations.)
· Morocco’s King is also seen as a progressive – more so than other Islamic leaders -- following in the footsteps of his predecessor who in 1948 argued in favor of girls’ education through the university level. In 1962, the first Moroccan constitution granted equal political rights to men and women, leading Moroccan women to both vote and run for election.
· In 2001, the start of the “Women’s Decade in Morocco,” King Mohammed VI set up a special commission to reform the family code (called Moudawana), allowing women to file for divorce and ensuring other rights. In 2004, new legal provisions increased women’s political and economic participation. Today, Fatima told us, there are more women in Parliament and ministerial positions than ever before (more than 26 percent), due to public investment in women’s education and increased awareness of women’s rights.
· Significantly, Fatima informed us that in 2011, Morocco was almost singularly spared the violence of the Arab Spring, as the King responded to his population and revised the constitution to enshrine equality – a major win for women.
The times, they are a-changing…
The improvement of life for Morocco’s women is now a push/pull that depends not only on the enlightenment of its visionary rulers, but also the efforts of its educated feminists working from the ground level up. Fatima’s most challenging work, she told us, has been in educating not only women, but also men, as to the actual instructions of the Holy Quran. She often challenges Islamic men to show her where exactly in its text the Quran restricts women’s education. They are unable to do so. And then she points to the text where “Allah orders both men and women to increase their knowledge and condemns those who are not learned,” thus demonstrating that Islam’s worldview supports and encourages the education of both women and men.
Similarly, while the Quran requires modest clothing for women, we noted that Moroccan women are not required to wear a chador, often choosing to wear, instead, only a head covering. Moroccan women are driving and move around freely without male escorts.
Walking a tightrope between the religious and secular forces across Moroccan society has been the country’s great challenge…yet we learned how Moroccan feminists are bravely facing the future to expand the rights of all women in this fascinating country.
Stay tune for the next installment of TarteTatinTales’ coverage of Morocco which will highlight its tradition of decorative arts and crafts.